The ancient city of Boudh, formerly a part of the Khinjali Mandala of the Bhanja dynasty is dotted with stunning temples of the late 8th – 9th century built by Maharaja Ranabhanja. The discovery of plates makes mention of grants made by the Bhanjas of Khinjali Mandala to a village of Gandatapati (known later as Gandharadi) close to the Mahanadi River.
The remains of an old fort, mounds and brick structures gives credence to the theory that this medieval town was once an important seat of learning, art, architecture and philosophy. The most famous temple complex of Gandharadi is the twin temples of Nilamadhava dedicated to Bhagawan Vishnu and Siddeshwara dedicated to Bhagawan Shiva that was originally located on the bank of the Mahanadi but now stands at a little distance away owing to the altered course of the river.
Though visually identical, the Nilamadhava Temple on the left has a chlorite Sudarshana Chakra as the crowning element while a chlorite akasa Shiva Linga sits atop the Siddeshwara Temple on the right! This unique architectural feature has never been found in any other temple built in the same period.
The east – facing temples sit next to each other on a high platform and are interestingly designed as a panchayatana with the twin temples marked as one and four smaller shrines on each corner of the platform. The four shrines however have collapsed over the years and only a few fragments are visible today.
The temples are designed in the typical rekha deul style of architecture with a flat – roofed jagmohana (assembly hall) and pancharatha garbha griha. The temple is built with locally sourced sandstone and chlorite.
The rectangular jagmohana has a two – tiered roof which was perhaps originally supported by twelve pillars with four pillars on all the four sides with a central opening. The lintels appear to have given way under the weight of the roof and the jagmohana was later redesigned to fill the gaps between the pillars and lintels thereby closing the sides and leaving only the central openings untouched.
The side openings now have jali work in blue chlorite at the bottom and miniature temple shikharas over it. There are carvings of Mahishasura Mardini, Durga Mata and Bhagawan Vishnu as Matsya, Kurma and Varaha among others.
The intricately carved Nagas on the doors and windows of the jagmohana are truly captivating. A Shiva Linga is consecrated on a square Shakti peetha in the sanctum sanctorum of Siddeshwara Temple while Bhagawan Vishnu is seen with four arms along with Sridevi and Bhudevi.
The temple is called Chari Sambhu as it houses four Shiva Lingas within the Siddeshwara Temple (Jogeshwara, Kapileshwara and Somnatha are the other three).
There are sculptures and carved panels within the premises that are of great antiquity. This little – known architectural gem has a fine blend of early Kalinga style of architecture and 9th – 10th century Bhanja dynasty imprint.
Written by Lakshmi Subramanian
sahasa.in 
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